Black Ivy

With one part Take Ivy and one part modern African-American history you get the recent project from the influential men's street fashion blog, Street Etiquette, called Black Ivy.

Black Ivy arose from a photo project between the guys at Street Etiquette and photographer F.E. Castlebury from Unabashedly Prep.  Much like Take Ivy documented the fashion and lifestyle of ivy league college students of the 1960s, Black Ivy takes a similar, yet modern approach to documenting the fashion of the modern and stylish black man in the setting of America's most elite historically black colleges.  The result is a beautiful set of photographs that in terms of fashion, clearly bridges the gap between the 1960s and today with an array of American prep styles, but from a perspective largely left out by the cultural circumstances of the 1960s.  It also equally serves to motivate a new generation to accomplish their goals, much like the black ivy league schools did in the past, no matter what social limits exist.

No matter who you are, you can't help but get inspiration from the spoken word performance given by Joekenneth Museau (from a previous collaboration, Sewn From the Soul) in the video documenting the day of the shoot.  He has a gift of speech shared by few.  Check out the Photo Slide-Show and the story at Street Etiquette for more info.

Here is the video:

Take Ivy

Take Ivy was the project of Japanese photographer Teruyoshi Hayashida.  His goal was to visit the Ivy League schools in the US and document the New England prep lifestyle and fashion at those schools.  The publishing of this book sparked a fashion craze in Japan for American prep fashion and to this day still demands respect as a huge influence and source of inspiration to the fashion world.


Originally published in 1965, the book was incredibly successful.  For decades after it's release, it was difficult to find and original editions were few and far between.  In 2006, a Japanese reprint was made of the original book and sold out quickly.  Lucky for all of us fashion conscious men in the english speaking world, powerHouse Books rereleased a fully translated version in September that is widely available.  I picked up a copy recently at a local bookstore and can't put it down.


Here are some of the photos from the book:

So if you have a chance, definitely take a look at the book.  The similarities between the styles of today and those of the era are remarkable.  

Next post, I'm going to share a recent project inspired by Take Ivy that takes a modern look at the American prep style from a different perspective. 

Ties for Cooler Times

Now that the leaves are falling, your colorful silk ties should be retiring for the winter and your heavier ties should be making their debut.  Silk ties just can't hold up and are too delicate for boot weather.  Wool and knit ties go great with the cooler temperatures and look more appropriate with heavier shirts and coats.  You can bet they will hold up just like any piece of winter wardrobe you own.

So now let's walk through some fall/winter ties to get an idea of what you should be looking for when expanding your winter tie collection:

Alexander Olch - Dotted Windowpane Tie - $140

This Alexander Olch tie is the quintessential winter tie for Fall/Winter 2010.  It's made of a thick and warm looking wool, has a fall color scheme and is both tweed and plaid, hitting a number of big trends this season.  

Topman - Brown Textured Check Tie - $20

This Topman tie is an incredibly attractive option for the price.  Once again, the plaid tie is popular this season and this tie does it very subtly while still being gentle on your wallet.

Band of Outsiders - Herringbone Tie - $135

Here is a simple herringbone tie from Band of Outsiders that is very classic looking and a great option if you are looking for something simple and versatile.

Alexander Olch - Contrast Tie - $140

Another tie by Alexander Olch that keeps that cool weather feel, but adds a unique stripe pattern.  The colors on this tie are beautiful and it's something different from most of the ties out there this season.

Now, if you feel that the first few ties are just too depressing for your wardrobe and you need something brighter, check out these next two ties.  While they are still wool and winter appropriate, they will make you stand out all winter.

David Hart & Co. - Scrimgeor Tie - $130

Gitman Vintage - Check Tie - $65

Finally, I don't want to leave out knit ties.  There are plenty of standard color options for knit ties that I don't think I need to show here, but if you want to stand out with one, look for ties like the following two from Rag & Bone:

Rag & Bone - Giles Fairisle Tie - $95

Rag & Bone - Giles Fairisle Tie - $95

So there you have it. Spice up your tie collection with some unique wool and knit ties for the cooler months and give those colorful silk ties a rest until next spring.

The Winter Coat

As the temperature drops, you are probably preparing to break out your winter wardrobe (Here in Cleveland, if you haven't started now, you are already behind).  Of course, one of the most important winter staples is the winter coat.  Because it is the most visible item in your winter wardrobe and probably gets more wear than anything else you own in the winter months, it's worth investing some money in.  And in that respect, I absolutely believe it's better to have one really nice coat than a few cheap ones.  


First, there are a couple of things to remember when looking for a good winter coat.  Always make sure it fits perfectly.  If you are investing in a good coat, you don't want to regret it later when you finally admit it doesn't fit quite like you had wanted it to (I've done this before - sometimes you want a particular coat so much you convince yourself to overlook that it's a hair too big and when you come to your senses later, you regret the purchase).  A coat that fits well will fit close to your body and needs just enough extra room around your chest and waist to fit thick sweaters or a couple layers and no more.  You don't want the coat to be overly baggy.  The sleeves should come to the bottom of your wrist when you have your hands at your side and no longer.  Also, be aware of the length you may need for your lifestyle.  If you have to be able to wear a suit under your coat, make sure the coat is long enough to cover your entire suit jacket.  Mid-thigh to knee length is appropriate.


So lets run through some of the most popular styles for this winter season.

Salvatore Ferragamo - $2950

A popular choice for the Fall/Winter 2010 season is the toggle coat.  Toggle coats are part of the big trend in military style clothing this season.  I do think some toggle coats look better than others, so just any old toggle coat will not be a winner.  The Ferragamo coat above is probably the best look example of a toggle coat I have seen.  Be wary though, some toggle coats can look a bit childish, so make sure the one you wear looks like it is made for a man.  Take a look at the original toggle coat by Gloverall and another version by J. Crew below.

Gloverall Classic 512/C - £265

J. Crew - $650

Another popular choice this season is the double breasted coat.  These are a great option if you need your coat to cover a suit.  They tend to be longer and look sophisticated enough for dressier settings, but definitely aren't limited to just that.  Check out the John Varvatos double breasted coat below.  It would look great in any setting and has a timeless look.  This type of coat will never go out of style.

John Varvatos - $1495

Burberry - $2195

Pea coats of course are always a popular choice and have been for a number of years.  Pea coats are a version of the double breasted coat, but tend to be shorter in length.  They are always a great option and will look good for most occasions.  The pea coat below from Unis is about as classic in style as they come and looks great.

Unis - $698

Tweed is also a popular style this Winter.  It won't make you look stuffy or like a professor as long as you stick to modern styles that fit great. Check out this coat by J. Lindeberg for a casual tweed coat option.

J. Lindeberg Rumble Patch Tweed Quilted Blazer - $590

There are plenty of unique options that will keep you looking good all winter and you definitely aren't confined to the styles shown here to look good.  For example, check out this awesome coat by Fly 53 below.

Fly 53 Morte Sonic Double Breasted Coat - $169 at www.asos.com

This coat has a ribbed collar that looks great and is an excellent casual winter jacket.

Now, for those of us on an extremely tight budget, here is a great option for a nice coat at an incredible price.  The only catch is you have to make it to a Uniqlo store, which are sadly too few and far between.

Uniqlo Coated Cotton Military Utility Jacket - $50

You can't beat that price, especially considering Uniqlo's good quality.

Finally, one last trend that has made a comeback this season is camel colored coats.  Most guys are hesitant about camel colored coats and I personally don't own one because my wardrobe is more heavy on grayscale clothing.  I don't have the spare cash to buy a coat that I couldn't get much wear out of, but if you do, or you feel camel would look great with the majority of your wardrobe, go for it.  It can definitely look sharp and you will stand out in a sea of mostly black coats during the winter months.

Gucci - $2590

No matter what style of coat you choose, whether it be one from this list or a completely different style, make sure you stick to the rules on proper fit from the beginning of the post.  You can have a closet full of designer coats, but if they don't have a great fit, you are wasting your money.